TRAVEL, INDIA Verity Coonan TRAVEL, INDIA Verity Coonan

Fresh starts, Fresh Chai..

Happy New Year!

Leaving our rooftop hotel, which we decide this is now a prerequisite for the entire trip. Morning yoga and Breathwork on a rooftop, even though today was 8 degrees. We now have appropriate clothing. Which my fashion style slightly resembles a confused homeless tourist, some sort of puffa jacket situation with cashmere scarves. Generally, three socks, two pants, and three tops get up. 

So many adjustments this trip, yet calmness remains. After the train adventures, it feels amazing to move our bodies. And India, known for yoga has given me an even greater practice. Yoga is a way of life and this teacher is relentless. I love it.

We’ve booked a day with our legend of a driver Sahil, he is seriously treating us like locals. We have breakfast at a super busy street store, Onion Katchori, Belle accompanies hers with a masala chai. I’m limited to chai tea, because of dairy. I hold hers for warmth. 

We head to The Palace early to beat the crowds, seeing the pictures you wouldn’t believe it but it got busier as we left. I love beautiful random architecture shots and pictures of people. As you will see.

It’s huge and we’re only allowed into the Queens Palace, the Kings is off limits. So as you could imagine we feel quite at home. We wander around, delighted at a great find. A clean hidden toilet before our tour, it really is the small things. 

India I’m learning is all about the food, and you must eat. So between Belle and Sahil who I’ve decided are basically the same person, the love of food and a good bargain, we are really getting our moneys worth. It’s an ongoing joke, as both are proud as punch to share with the other when they get a deal. 

Again, the local find off yet another must try dish. After we cross the road for a coconut, this time Sahil is getting the car, we think we know the price 20Rp for two. Nope 80Rp this time, Belle. 

Udaipur is winning us over more at every moment, we stop for a coffee, before a garden stroll. 

The Monsoon Palace is definitely going to be our next monument destination, we are wary. We are finally getting sims. Somethings take time when you travel. Belle’s has to be redone 3 times before see is good to go, as it reaches closer to 5pm, we race to the hill. Purchase tickets and Sahil of course has us in prime position for the drive up. 

Such a beautiful spot to watch the sunset, the Monsoon Palace was built to watch the monsoonal season come in. 

Our romantic dinner, again at the suggestion of Sahil is best one yet. We move into Old Town, I feel an instant connection. Like when I first went to Byron Bay, the content feeling continues to arise. This had been recommended to be as his partner’s favourite place. So far I agree. I know it’s only day 5. 

We drop our bags and explore some more. We walk into a few shops, I get a pink silk matching set, we check out an art gallery, and then are on the hunt for desserts. Another recommendation, we search for the German bakery. Only to get ourselves an invite to a royal wedding - the dream come true. Belle has been saying from the very beginning, that we need to manifest an invite. Indian weddings are such a procession of events. Stoked! 

We jump in the blue lit up TukTuk with sweet tunes playing and enter the wedding.

We are asked to have our photos taken with the couple and their family. Then given a plate of desserts. Clearly fate!

As promised we go back and view, the Pashminas and Paintings before heading back to our new cute haveli. With a decision to make, stay another day and enjoy and adventure or head to our Place hotel. We sleep on it.

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INDIA, TRAVEL Verity Coonan INDIA, TRAVEL Verity Coonan

HAPPY NEW YEAR! 

Happy New Year!

I really mean it. This year is going to be the best one yet. Life feels like it’s aligning with me or I with it. 

Blessed with the grace of waking early regardless of when I sleep, I’m up. My 2023 is about: Commitment to my intuition and following it wholeheartedly. 

Sunrise, Rooftop Breathwork, yoga, goals, and writing in my dream journal. This is me.

Reflecting back on 22 as a journey. I’ll say it again because nothing in the world has made me happier than becoming an Aunty and watching my sister be the best mum. Allie is the cutest getting around, you know people say you’ll be biased, but honestly check her out. 

Growing, creating letting go and reconnecting with the best souls. When I have to sum it up in a few words 2022 - Peace and quality time with family. 

I’m not saying it wasn’t a journey of ups and downs but I ended up with a beautiful sense of peace within myself. 

I’m excited for the year, feeling the fullest version of myself yet. Trusting what I do, what messages come through, being brave, dropping in, and listening.

We begin exploring the town and all to has to offer, our driver Sahil is the biggest legend. He had a smile that ensures your safety. There are drivers that tell you they take you to their favourite place, yet it’s their mates and they get a commission. I understand everyone needs to make a living, we just wanted the best and we truly got it. 

Belle is possibly the biggest foodie I know and loves a bargain more than anyone I know. She and Sahil are like twins. Both are as excited as each other to get the best deal. This is going to be a great time.

I mention coconuts and boom, he pulls over for roadside coconuts, and now we’re talking. 

The priority is new warm clothes, clothes for the snow basically. This NT girl has not packed for these temperatures and hasn’t had a winter since 2014. 

Sahil bargains so we can each get a puffer jacket, and beanie and I get gloves. It’s fashion babe. 

I’ve seen these pictures everywhere and heard the words Veg Thali a lot, so we opted for the quick unlimited option which is $5, this is my favourite. A mix of all curries and dahls, breads delivered with all the sauces. I’m in heaven. Quick heaven as we head back to our room. We’ve booked in-room massages this afternoon, after all the squished-up travel it’s necessary. 

Sunset at Monsoon Palace is the plan, Sahil drives us up after being a little delayed with our massage guy, the hotel wouldn’t let him in without paying some ridiculous amount. So we were a little behind schedule, the massage was worth it though. The no hot water is starting to become a bit taxing, we asked for a new room, they suggested a bucket. Neither of which happened, at this point in my towel I’m threatening to go downstairs and complain, Belle calmly and highly and sternly recommends I do not. After a few more requests we receive two scolding buckets of water. I feel like this is yet another test. This hotel and India is surely messing with us now.

Cold showers, ice baths when you want them amazing. When you have no other option it’s a whole other mental challenge. 

Albeit. Another failed monument attempt. India has a wonderful way of teaching you lessons with no remorse. With Sahils smile and our laughs, we decide a sunset boat ride around the lake is the perfect way to end 1/1/23. Of course, we are with all the locals, and we drinking our special Sigar coffee, theirs look delicious with a milky foam. 

He takes us to his friend’s restaurant on the lake and we try, at his recommendation Laal Mass, a mutton curry, Paneer Tikka Masala, and breads. Romantic dinners on the lake are also now a thing. 

The craziest dream wakes me up at 1:30am, that I was going to jail. Perhaps it was something to do with frustrations of the place and empty rebellious threats that would only get myself in trouble!

Although I’m highlighting the complete chaos, its really all part of the bigger plan, right? Teaching me lessons along the way. And to be fair, we hadn’t planned much prior, so all is well in the land of uncertainty and adventure. Understanding more why people come here to heal, it really is a full-force impact, highly enjoyable though. If you continue to see the lighter side of life. 

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On the Train - Train as the Year Closes Out

On the train train as the year is closes out.

Feels like I’ve been in India for three weeks now and on trains for the same amount of time. Belle’s once again been made aware of my rare talent to sleep anywhere again. She’s having flashbacks from being on the bus in Compton. Where she pocketed our passports as I soundly slept. 

We’re positive as we are on our way to Agra, we quickly google the Taj Mahal once more, to confirm. A little too late seems to be our recurring theme, as it’s closed on Fridays. Next google.. things you do in Agra on Fridays. It’s a thing and so we’re clearly not the only ones. 

Our new and ‘no hurry, no worry’ plan of seeing the Red Fort emerges, everything is always working out. And perhaps we are just meant to return to Delhi in the future to visit the…. Let’s just leave it remain unnamed for now. Perhaps a little raw still. Kidding here is an image on the exact day we were here that some lovely guys we met on the train home sent to us.

Back to the Red Fort adventure, arriving at 4pm now as the 2.5 hour train has now taken 4 hours. All monuments close at 4:30pm, so straight to Red Fort it is. We race in grab and tickets, refuse a guide and the games begin. Studying the architecture, clapping to hear the echoes, the marble, the doors, the amazing carved walls. Acutely aware of the fact we will need to google these actually facts and history on our way home. We race, and yes I’ll be honest. We race to take photos at every empty cute space we can find. When you don’t know anyone and you’re with your bestie, you can be honest of how to pose and not be weird. Because we all want to post a picture saying we’ve been there. So it looks and sounds a bit like this.. quick here. Jump. Suck in your tummy. Turn to the side. Point your toe. There is no sugarcoating between friends. And that’s what I love, even though I post the funniest and probably the most unflattering ones. As it’s actually just funnier. So I guess what I am saying is find great mates who are super honest. 

Prior to the trip I’d gotten a message from my beautiful friend ‘you’re 38 right?’ I kid you not, next message from Belle ‘what’s your ring size?’ Again the universe giving me kind and hilarious reminders of life. Belle had pre-warned me about the celebrity status that may occur. So she had our wedding rings ready to go. 

We are asked to be in photos with families, babies, groups, literally the more the merrier. Selfies with everyone over here, you feel adored - I think, I mean they loves you to be in their photos, not sure where they all end up.

The wedding rings are the greatest idea.

Decide we have enough time to grab some take away from a local restaurant, side note, say pack away or parcel, and then you can make this magic happen. We order a lot, as recommended and then we are again racing back to the bloody train station, can you believe it, we are still on the train train.

We attempt a quick snack and are surrounded by dogs who are more keen on our food than we are which would be impossible at this point. They are snarling and being slapped away by thongs and scarves from the men around us, thanks protectors. We pack it all up and are asked again for a pic from a group of guys, as they had protected us we agree and ask them if we are about to get on the right train. Kindly he checks out tickets and ensures us we are on the same track. 

As we continue chatting, they too had attempted to see the Taj also. To their credit, they took a boat tour and actually got some amazing pictures, which you see featured above. Thanks guys.

Fun facts for you and I about Red Fort: 

Built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. The real name is Qila-E-Mubarak, and due to its red sandstone nature is now Red Fort. It took eight years to build, takes up 254.46 acres and the architects’ names are Ustad Ahmed Latori and Ustad Hamid. Quite the career achievements. 

Known for its massive walls, blows my mind about building and architecture today. The scale, the time, all of the regulations. Have we progressed or constricted creativity?

After 3 hours, the kind guys who helped us jumped off and we again checked our stop, a little too late. We should’ve got off.

It’s just laughable now so next one it is. We chat with a driver and organise a price to our friend’s place, the safe space at the moment. 

His TukTuk pulls up, it’s an hour and freezing. We jump in for the adventure, get 4 minutes down the track and both agree this is not doable for an hour. We venture home in cab.

Our evening is fun at home with our friends, who in true Punjabi fashion I’m told love to feed. Did just that ordering desserts after being told everything over here has dairy in it, James orders ones with ghee. These are my favourite. So many food favourites here. So you must try these - Moong Dahl Halwa Desi Ghee which was not to sweet but yum. And a savoury snack Hara Bhara Kebab. 

I’m talking through the Shiva shrine and rituals practiced daily. I’m already in love with the culture and this has cemented it. 

As explained, God is the Generator, Operator and Destroyer. This is a Hindu concept with Brahma the Creator, Vishnu the Preserver, and Shiva the Destroyer being the three faces of God. The Creator (or my Creator) and the energy keeping you alive that is within inside every human being and has no beginning and no end that cannot be created or destroyed. While the certainty of death is for everybody it is not personalised. 

Pushkar which is home to the most significant temple dedicated to Lord Brahma, is the only temple where Brahma is worshipped. And this is now on our list of travels to visit. 

2:22am we head to bed.. 

31/12/22

New Years Eve arrives, again we are spoilt with a delicious home cooked breakfast, Chai and Coffee.

Feeling like the true princesses we think we are, we head to purchase some jewellery. Sonali takes us to her favourite spot, I feel like we’re in the movies. We’re seated given refreshments and out come the trays of beautiful gold rings. An investment, a heirloom, we both agree we deserve these new gold rings. Especially as you’re able to return it anytime for exchange of new ones or even your money back. You’re welcome Allie, Aunty has your back. 

We say our goodbyes and make our way to another monument. Jumping in our taxi we head to Huyamans Tomb, it’s becoming a bit of a running theme for us to get running to the popular tourist destinations. It is absolutely stunning, back to our modelling stances. We begin to notice everyone else here has much better ideas for pics so we wander around, enjoying and trailing out their cute photos ideas. 

This time, we head for the airport. I know, all modes of transport are welcomed right now, a break from the trains. Surely we got this. 

Check-in with our overloaded baggage, apologising and thanking the staff for allowing such luggage on board. We are pulled up as they go through our entire backpacks, we now are praying at every step, we’re pretty damn keen to get out of Delhi…

Clearly not that keen, we eat and I order us the biggest cups of coffee I’ve ever seen. Well, we’re not drinking so this is our NY buzz. We head to our gate and are rushed onto the bus then the plane as we almost missed our plane. Meeting a guy on the bus who’d just had three shots after a breakup and his friends got him a NY ticket to Udiapur for the night. We’ve all been there, man. Let your hair down.

We sit down apologetically and celebrate to ourselves. We made it. 

A DJ sitting next to me, a bit flustered explains he is on his third flight to get to Udiapur and is running behind for his gig.. I wish him well. 

Arriving in Udiapur, and our first rooftop stop - we enjoy Chai and New Year’s call catch-ups to the best back in Aus. 

We’re waiting for our room as they’re fixing the taps, we discovered later, there are no taps or hot water in our 5-star accommodation. The staff are lovely and we’re happy on the roof regardless. 

As midnight strikes, were dressed in our trackies, yoga mats on the roof, fireworks were amazing, cards were pulled. Our vibe is quite different from everyone else’s but it’s all perfect and the feeling of contentment arises. These moments are special, where you can feel blessed, grateful, proud, happy, ok I’m trying to explain contentment but the word is just that, there’s not more, no greater. 

Simply content. 

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INDIA, TRAVEL Verity Coonan INDIA, TRAVEL Verity Coonan

Nothing more, nothing less than the experience of experience itself. 

Nothing more, nothing less than the experience of experience itself.

India has been trial by fire, a friend told me it may take 1-2 weeks to truly ground down here. I think the universe gave me 2 days..

Luckily checking my flight from Singapore earl-ish, 3 hours prior, I was able to change to an earlier connecting flight, from here on I knew we were ‘travelling’ - B & V style. Which turns out is still not for the faint hearted.

Arriving in Delhi at the airport we book our New Years flight out of the big city and then head to Belle’s friends place. We are welcomed with the most warmest arms. Chai tea is served along with aloo matar, palak paneer, chapatti, grated radish and chutney, which came with a warning. Yet turns out this is the favourite. 

A last minute decision after breakfast we decide to venture to the Taj Mahal for the afternoon, stay over night and head back. We took the wrong train, for 5 hours - and ended up almost at the Golden Temple. We had arrived in Ludhiana, which sounded familiar as it’s where my friend from Darwin was staying and it’s his home town. A little too late, as we quickly boarded our general ticket train heading back. He called me back saying oh no, we could’ve come and got you and I have red wine and a bed ready for you girls. 

We quickly found a seat on the train, mine being near the toilets and the open carriage door. Everyone with the polite smiles and in-depth stares, all of us thinking the same wtf are we doing here. Belle jumps up on the second bunk and scores a bed for some time, my bench is then shared with a man who didn’t seem so impressed.

We discover the reason when a cute little girl snitches on Belle waking her mum up, after a little scene the man at the end of my seat gets his bed and we are faced with an almost fine of 800 Rp, as the ticket man tells us we laugh and smile and be asked to move to a comfier place. Not sure who we think we are but hey, it’s always worth a try. 

FYI. Little girl.. snitches get stitches. 

We are sent down to the back of the train, where all the cool cats hang. The men around us look tough but clearly find us amusing. 

At one stop Belle runs off to quickly gets snacks, like I said we live on the edge. 

I’m asked to have a chat with the man’s cousin on FaceTime, she’s a lovely lady, clearly very happy to chat with me, although the conversation wasn’t flowing, you soon realise life becomes so heart warming when you are welcomed with such big smiles and excitement.

We become even more entertaining as they are amazed by Belles Indian eating skills. My lessons coming in hot, eating my delicious Dahl, I pick up a green bean, munching away and of course it’s a super hot chilli. All you can do is laugh really. And eat the bread.

Everyone being very friendly, reminding me to close my zipper in my bag exposing my passport. The trust is real. And my travel awareness is yet to return..

Travel buddies must be selected wisely, due to these unforeseen adventures one must have the awareness to remain calm, always see the funny side and know that it always works out one way or another. As long as snacks are available and more importantly you are flexible with plans. It gave us much time to reflect on all out other hilarious times and wild situations we’ve been in, always a bright side, at least this time no-one has been arrested.

Our taxi back to our friends home is lovely, giving us a quick tour of some temples all lit up beautifully, turns the heater on for me as it’s freezing cold. And I’m out.. asleep until we reach home, to another beautifully cooked meal, chai and rum cake. 

This bed feels like a dream, first actual bed sleep for 3 nights…

30/12/22

Day two, and Taj attempt number two. Fresh chai and a coffee to begin this day.

Again we take the same train, the one we were supposed to take to Agra. We are certainly being spoilt with their hospitality - our breakfast all packed up, arriving at the train station, a super helpful man shows up at the platform and guides us to our correct location. We squat down and enjoy our breakfast picnic. Dahl with Aloo Paratha and the delicious chutney. 

Still very cautious and quickly losing trust, we confirm the train number via the TV screen, asking 17 people and checking 13 times - we are on. Guided to our bed seats this is beginning to look like the dream. This time we are prepared with borrowed jackets and all.

This is clearly the most I’ve travelled on a plane and train at once. So this, this is yoga. Welcome to India. Stay tuned…

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