INDIA, TRAVEL Verity Coonan INDIA, TRAVEL Verity Coonan

En route to the Ashram

8/1/23 - Our last day in Rajasthan. I’ve truly loved this place, each city having its own unique vibe and something special to offer.

This morning is all love. I’m loving Yoga and Yoga loving me. I feel the best after a Breathwork and a long juicy flow.  The sun beaming down, turns into no sock flow. Gratitude is always in the small moments.

Travel accentuates everything and all emotions. And it works both ways. The excitement, highs, and fun times. Also the gravity of what your body is able to hold. Acknowledging when you need to slow down or move your body. Tourist adventures are fun, yet your daily rituals and requirements hold feet to overall happiness.

So a day to get on top of life is necessary. To chill in our awesome abode.

So is food! Belle is stoked to find a 14000 review place that has 4.3 stars. Breakfast and dinner are here. It’s a mixture of all small shops providing the goods. I’m told its run by the government, so I’m unsure how it all works but I got chatting to two of the shop owners and they seemed super happy with the deal.

Paneer wrap, Veg Thali, Chai - these are becoming a constant in my life. Two young guys sit down with us and we’re saying how much we love the food. They are quite amused as it’s their normal foods. 

9/1/23 - We hit the road.

Sonni our awesome driver in Jaipur is calling us at 6 am to take us to the airport. So prompt, so chill. It’s a nice change.

Back to Delhi we head, only for a stopover as we make our way to Rishikesh. Ashram here we come… 

When you’re busy and on the move a lot, you are in the moment, being present. That’s why travel is an amazing healer. It can bring out all the goodness and all the ahh other stuff.  A time to reflect, think, or just be.

In the beginning our new driver wasn’t on our good side, after the agreed price wanting more for tolls which is understandable but he was making up prices, he’d shown me the actual prices and then added on another huge amount. It can become annoying when you just want to pay the real price. I don’t know any holiday or journey that doesn’t have it ups and downs. So I trust you’re enjoying the ride along with us!

So the next exciting part is.. more food. A surprise find on the way. A huuuuge Veg Thali. This has sent us over the edge. The place is called Meera, the fitout is super cute and colours, it would be impossible to feel upset here.

We arrive at our Ashram and dinner is served.

It is absolutely freezing, I keep checking the temps, it’s saying 10 degrees. That is actually impossible or I’ve lost my mind.

We are given a mini heater, basically a hair dryer which I sit beside and am allowed to take into my room. Which is a quaint room… bedding and linen optional. Perhaps I can work with Adairs and we can fit out Ashrams, perhaps a new charity in the mix.

I’m here for the experience and to do the work…

I wont keep you in suspense. I did make it through the night.

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There are Always Two Sides - Jaipur

There’s always two sides - Jaipur.

Awakening this morning after the Full moon, my body knows it needs downtime. 

A cleansing Breathwork is needed to release the tension. 

We’ve done a lot of travelling and Forts and tourist things. I love to travel, however I know my body. Belle had discovered a cafe that she knew would be right up my alley. It’s called Farmacy, a healthy cafe designed by doctors. We pack your gear up and put luggage into storage which means I am adored with my cool backpack. 

Into our TukTuk we jump, the day is already starting well our driver is a calm soul, no stress, no pushiness. Super chill. He knows exactly where to go, and offers to wait for us. We say we will be a few hours, yet he is happy. The patience over here is a whole new level. 

This place is exactly what I needed. All health, quiet, amazing decor, and friendly staff. Time to chill out, get up to date on life. Emails, booking a trip with my sister and Allie. Life really is for living!

We order kebabs, which even the word doesn’t sit right with me. Yet these are delicious Burasi Beetroot Kebabs - crunchy, smokey patties made from kidney beans and beetroot accompanied with a mustard sauce. A Black Wheat Lacha Parantha, a semolina flour Indian bread flavoured with butter & exotic vegetables, paneer, cheese, vegetable baked in clay oven. And a Paneer Paratha, another bread stuffed with homemade cottage cheese & spices annnnnd a Pindi Chana, a North Indian chickpeas curry.

We book a new hotel, looks cute and out of the city. Which I highly recommend - Suryaa Villa. We thought walking in city would be fun, yet our bodies needed quiet. I’d been told about having a bubble, time to escape and I was craving this today.

Visiting monuments today became a little about checking them off the list, which isn’t ideal. Nothing a coffee cannot fix. As we walked through City Palace and museums, viewing weapons, clothing… 700Rp for this tour and to be fair at this stage, we’ve seen some breathtaking monuments and here we aren’t allowed to take photos.

I am sure Belle is relieved at this, I cannot understand why she doesn’t want photos with me today. Tourist V, backpack, and all!

The weather warms up and so does she, layers are removed, and as long as my backpack stays out of the shot, I’m allowed in. We become slightly more intrigued at Jantar Mantar which is all about astrology and cool photo ops for us.

More funny pictures, money exchanged and time to collect our bags.

Hawa Mahal is what I was excited to see, the pink city remains true. The roads are busy busy, so we pull over I jump out and get the shot. 

We are taken to the Nahargarh Fort where we can see the city, Jal Mahal, all of Jaipur’s great monuments.

Death is synonymous with sadness, but Maharajas turned this sorrow into a 'Saga of the Past.' The most exquisite and graceful instance in this saga is Jaipur's famed 'Gatore ki Chhatriyan.' The Gatore compound follows Vedic architectural guidelines with Indo-Persian structural and arcuate building influences. Crematoriums are located north of the hamlet and slope southwards, according to Vedic norms. A body of water, particularly a river, provides an ideal setting for the memorials.

The courtyard has three sections:

  • The chhatri of Sawai Jai Singh II, the founder of Jaipur, stands in the courtyard's center and is made of Taj marble. Basically, we’ve seen the Taj now. ..

  • Sawai Ram Singh's memorial is located just behind the chhatri of Sawai Jai Singh. It mimics his chhatri and contains an exact depiction of the regal games of army scenes made of Italian marble.

  • Sawai Madho Singh, is the most intricate of all and is a one-of-a-kind blend of stone and marble work. Its layout is similar to that of the Taj Mahal to some extent.

We view the three white, red, and yellow marbles. Venture though the secret doors, and meditate as sunrise hits. A nice chill time and the energy in these places is next level. I feel it instantly in my heart, messages come through quickly and fast. The heart has been broken, yet you are home. Home within yourself. Mostly messages make sense after time, I mean this one is quite clear. Yet they aren’t always like this. 

We meet a guy walking his three donkeys on the way, he guides us up the mountain. Quickly acknowledging my fitness levels at this point, heart is racing - deck chairs stairs got nothing on these ones. 

We really do get lucky, India has a way of showing us the worst of the cities first, if we pass the test and stay calm, laugh and enjoy. We seem to be rewarded with magic afterwards. I will continue to believe this for the remainder of my trip… There are always two sides.

The views are astonishing. Truly these moments of contentment pop back in. 

The traffic is a lot in this city, our driver is forceful and a weapon on the horn, we get to our destinations as quick as possibly viable. 


Our new place is everything we’ve dreamed of. I highly recommend staying here at Surya Villas. The entrance feels calm, the pretty lights, and then as we walk in, we are shown around the property while we wait to check-in. It has a fire in the middle of the restaurant. I know. Amazing, as this is the coldest it’s ever been in Jaipur. So it’s not only us feeling the cold. We have a family-size room, and boiling hot water that doesn’t need to be switched on. Big mugs for our bring coffees. Again the small things I am so grateful for.

Our dinner is Laal mass to end of Rajasthan stay, paneer curry and breads. The owner asks if we like it hot, generally we’ve been saying medium. As who knows what level of hot is here. But I take the risk and it’s worth it. Warm curries, warm chai, warm showers ahead. Happiness.

These guys can do no wrong here right now. Belle has spotted a bakery sign so we walk to ‘check it out’ brownie heaven here. So desserts is sorted. Biscoff Brownie from O’Baque.

This night is the best… Hot showers, get into my comfiest clothes and brownie in bed. 

Peace out from Nan. 

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Full Moon & Pushkar Prayers

Full moon today, and in the full feminine. Igniting passions and perspectives, renewal of energy, mind, heart, and journey. Embracing being wild and free, to connect back to the heart, intuition, nature… all in all a time to decide what is for us and what’s not. 

Ceremonies today are a little extra, as we are at the Brahma Temple in Pushkar. - With Dillip.

We are guided through, given all the information and history such fascinating culture and it’s given us a more insight and meaning to the day ahead. 





After removing our shoes, and handed beautiful red roses, we wander through the temple. Hand over our roses and bindis to the gods along with our prayers.

Another two stops to add our bindis, prayers and the last one is hands open as we accept the offerings. 

A cute colour Rajastan outfit catches my eye, for Allie of course. And then we decide to get some skirts to solidify our presence for the day. Yellow, improves blood circulation for me, and good luck red for Belle. We pause for a Chai and Coffee and adorn our skirts.

We head to the lake, to begin our ceremony. 

FYI - On the land of Lord Brahma, the special rituals of Shradh /Paksha are performed in remembrance of ancestors by their families. 

Padma Purana Pushkar is the most significant place for performing the rituals of Shraadh for the departed souls to stay in peace and be happy. Lord Rama and Pandwa came here at Pushkar to perform here Shradha ritual for their ancestor.

According to Bhagwat Geeta

"acchedyo 'yam adahyo 'yam

akledyo 'sosya eva cha

nityah sarva-gatah sthanur

achalo 'yam sanatanah" (Bhagwat Gita: Chapter Two verse 24)


"Sri Krishna said: This individual soul is unbreakable and insoluble and can be neither burned nor dried. He is everlasting; present everywhere, unchangeable, immovable and eternally the same."


As the soul is ever lasting, Hence It became very significant to perform Shraddh during Pitru Paksha for the departed souls to rest in peace. Shradh rituals can be performed by the family member of deceased person especially by son or grandson, few additional steps has to be flowed if the rituals are performed by other person. It is very special event performed on the Bank of Pushkar Lake involves certain steps.

- Sankalpa - Commitment before performing ritual describing all details.

- Pind Daan - (Pind - round balls of flour created with special mantra for rituals) is done for for the salvation of the soul of their ancestors.

- Tarpan or sprinkling of water is performed, along with repetitions of mantras and texts from the Veda.

- Under the guidance of priest a person who is performing rituals has to repeat the mantras after the priest. Devotee make Donation of food, clothes after this ritual.

We accept our offerings plate and look over the lake at the female temple. A beautiful photo op and a monkey scares Belle, plate goes flying and a little squeal. This is probably a great omen if we decide..

We are each guided to a Brahma and the prayers begin. For ourselves, family and ancestors and loved ones passed. To ensure health, long life, happiness and abundance. A beautiful prayer, I’m told to repeat after the guide and we bless all. Bindi applied to my third eye, string wrapped around my wrist and holy water on my head. I empty the plate into the lake and it’s complete. 

Almost complete, a donation is made. 

We are hurried out of the place, I understand why it’s a place to visit and am happy we are continuing our journey to Jaipur. 

We view the lake in Ajmer and a few more hours are in Jaipur.

Another recurring theme, which is funny because it’s also part of my commitment to 2023 - listening to my intuition. Dillip pulls rank and we are off to view some of his hotel recommendations… I feel my skin crawling as we head to an area that is full of men hanging around outside. As two females travelling alone and wanting to get dinner, it just doesn’t feel right. We also check the reviews online - Belle the Review Queen and I are not convinced. A few more words are spoken haha. Eventually, we find a place to crash for the night that had their own restaurant with good reviews in the city centre that we wanted and a Veg Tail - Happy ladies.

The shower was warm, the Thali was good and the music played all night.

We are literally Nanas on this trip. I’m here for it and all the AirPod working wonders. 

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Fresh starts, Fresh Chai..

Happy New Year!

Leaving our rooftop hotel, which we decide this is now a prerequisite for the entire trip. Morning yoga and Breathwork on a rooftop, even though today was 8 degrees. We now have appropriate clothing. Which my fashion style slightly resembles a confused homeless tourist, some sort of puffa jacket situation with cashmere scarves. Generally, three socks, two pants, and three tops get up. 

So many adjustments this trip, yet calmness remains. After the train adventures, it feels amazing to move our bodies. And India, known for yoga has given me an even greater practice. Yoga is a way of life and this teacher is relentless. I love it.

We’ve booked a day with our legend of a driver Sahil, he is seriously treating us like locals. We have breakfast at a super busy street store, Onion Katchori, Belle accompanies hers with a masala chai. I’m limited to chai tea, because of dairy. I hold hers for warmth. 

We head to The Palace early to beat the crowds, seeing the pictures you wouldn’t believe it but it got busier as we left. I love beautiful random architecture shots and pictures of people. As you will see.

It’s huge and we’re only allowed into the Queens Palace, the Kings is off limits. So as you could imagine we feel quite at home. We wander around, delighted at a great find. A clean hidden toilet before our tour, it really is the small things. 

India I’m learning is all about the food, and you must eat. So between Belle and Sahil who I’ve decided are basically the same person, the love of food and a good bargain, we are really getting our moneys worth. It’s an ongoing joke, as both are proud as punch to share with the other when they get a deal. 

Again, the local find off yet another must try dish. After we cross the road for a coconut, this time Sahil is getting the car, we think we know the price 20Rp for two. Nope 80Rp this time, Belle. 

Udaipur is winning us over more at every moment, we stop for a coffee, before a garden stroll. 

The Monsoon Palace is definitely going to be our next monument destination, we are wary. We are finally getting sims. Somethings take time when you travel. Belle’s has to be redone 3 times before see is good to go, as it reaches closer to 5pm, we race to the hill. Purchase tickets and Sahil of course has us in prime position for the drive up. 

Such a beautiful spot to watch the sunset, the Monsoon Palace was built to watch the monsoonal season come in. 

Our romantic dinner, again at the suggestion of Sahil is best one yet. We move into Old Town, I feel an instant connection. Like when I first went to Byron Bay, the content feeling continues to arise. This had been recommended to be as his partner’s favourite place. So far I agree. I know it’s only day 5. 

We drop our bags and explore some more. We walk into a few shops, I get a pink silk matching set, we check out an art gallery, and then are on the hunt for desserts. Another recommendation, we search for the German bakery. Only to get ourselves an invite to a royal wedding - the dream come true. Belle has been saying from the very beginning, that we need to manifest an invite. Indian weddings are such a procession of events. Stoked! 

We jump in the blue lit up TukTuk with sweet tunes playing and enter the wedding.

We are asked to have our photos taken with the couple and their family. Then given a plate of desserts. Clearly fate!

As promised we go back and view, the Pashminas and Paintings before heading back to our new cute haveli. With a decision to make, stay another day and enjoy and adventure or head to our Place hotel. We sleep on it.

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HAPPY NEW YEAR! 

Happy New Year!

I really mean it. This year is going to be the best one yet. Life feels like it’s aligning with me or I with it. 

Blessed with the grace of waking early regardless of when I sleep, I’m up. My 2023 is about: Commitment to my intuition and following it wholeheartedly. 

Sunrise, Rooftop Breathwork, yoga, goals, and writing in my dream journal. This is me.

Reflecting back on 22 as a journey. I’ll say it again because nothing in the world has made me happier than becoming an Aunty and watching my sister be the best mum. Allie is the cutest getting around, you know people say you’ll be biased, but honestly check her out. 

Growing, creating letting go and reconnecting with the best souls. When I have to sum it up in a few words 2022 - Peace and quality time with family. 

I’m not saying it wasn’t a journey of ups and downs but I ended up with a beautiful sense of peace within myself. 

I’m excited for the year, feeling the fullest version of myself yet. Trusting what I do, what messages come through, being brave, dropping in, and listening.

We begin exploring the town and all to has to offer, our driver Sahil is the biggest legend. He had a smile that ensures your safety. There are drivers that tell you they take you to their favourite place, yet it’s their mates and they get a commission. I understand everyone needs to make a living, we just wanted the best and we truly got it. 

Belle is possibly the biggest foodie I know and loves a bargain more than anyone I know. She and Sahil are like twins. Both are as excited as each other to get the best deal. This is going to be a great time.

I mention coconuts and boom, he pulls over for roadside coconuts, and now we’re talking. 

The priority is new warm clothes, clothes for the snow basically. This NT girl has not packed for these temperatures and hasn’t had a winter since 2014. 

Sahil bargains so we can each get a puffer jacket, and beanie and I get gloves. It’s fashion babe. 

I’ve seen these pictures everywhere and heard the words Veg Thali a lot, so we opted for the quick unlimited option which is $5, this is my favourite. A mix of all curries and dahls, breads delivered with all the sauces. I’m in heaven. Quick heaven as we head back to our room. We’ve booked in-room massages this afternoon, after all the squished-up travel it’s necessary. 

Sunset at Monsoon Palace is the plan, Sahil drives us up after being a little delayed with our massage guy, the hotel wouldn’t let him in without paying some ridiculous amount. So we were a little behind schedule, the massage was worth it though. The no hot water is starting to become a bit taxing, we asked for a new room, they suggested a bucket. Neither of which happened, at this point in my towel I’m threatening to go downstairs and complain, Belle calmly and highly and sternly recommends I do not. After a few more requests we receive two scolding buckets of water. I feel like this is yet another test. This hotel and India is surely messing with us now.

Cold showers, ice baths when you want them amazing. When you have no other option it’s a whole other mental challenge. 

Albeit. Another failed monument attempt. India has a wonderful way of teaching you lessons with no remorse. With Sahils smile and our laughs, we decide a sunset boat ride around the lake is the perfect way to end 1/1/23. Of course, we are with all the locals, and we drinking our special Sigar coffee, theirs look delicious with a milky foam. 

He takes us to his friend’s restaurant on the lake and we try, at his recommendation Laal Mass, a mutton curry, Paneer Tikka Masala, and breads. Romantic dinners on the lake are also now a thing. 

The craziest dream wakes me up at 1:30am, that I was going to jail. Perhaps it was something to do with frustrations of the place and empty rebellious threats that would only get myself in trouble!

Although I’m highlighting the complete chaos, its really all part of the bigger plan, right? Teaching me lessons along the way. And to be fair, we hadn’t planned much prior, so all is well in the land of uncertainty and adventure. Understanding more why people come here to heal, it really is a full-force impact, highly enjoyable though. If you continue to see the lighter side of life. 

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Nothing more, nothing less than the experience of experience itself. 

Nothing more, nothing less than the experience of experience itself.

India has been trial by fire, a friend told me it may take 1-2 weeks to truly ground down here. I think the universe gave me 2 days..

Luckily checking my flight from Singapore earl-ish, 3 hours prior, I was able to change to an earlier connecting flight, from here on I knew we were ‘travelling’ - B & V style. Which turns out is still not for the faint hearted.

Arriving in Delhi at the airport we book our New Years flight out of the big city and then head to Belle’s friends place. We are welcomed with the most warmest arms. Chai tea is served along with aloo matar, palak paneer, chapatti, grated radish and chutney, which came with a warning. Yet turns out this is the favourite. 

A last minute decision after breakfast we decide to venture to the Taj Mahal for the afternoon, stay over night and head back. We took the wrong train, for 5 hours - and ended up almost at the Golden Temple. We had arrived in Ludhiana, which sounded familiar as it’s where my friend from Darwin was staying and it’s his home town. A little too late, as we quickly boarded our general ticket train heading back. He called me back saying oh no, we could’ve come and got you and I have red wine and a bed ready for you girls. 

We quickly found a seat on the train, mine being near the toilets and the open carriage door. Everyone with the polite smiles and in-depth stares, all of us thinking the same wtf are we doing here. Belle jumps up on the second bunk and scores a bed for some time, my bench is then shared with a man who didn’t seem so impressed.

We discover the reason when a cute little girl snitches on Belle waking her mum up, after a little scene the man at the end of my seat gets his bed and we are faced with an almost fine of 800 Rp, as the ticket man tells us we laugh and smile and be asked to move to a comfier place. Not sure who we think we are but hey, it’s always worth a try. 

FYI. Little girl.. snitches get stitches. 

We are sent down to the back of the train, where all the cool cats hang. The men around us look tough but clearly find us amusing. 

At one stop Belle runs off to quickly gets snacks, like I said we live on the edge. 

I’m asked to have a chat with the man’s cousin on FaceTime, she’s a lovely lady, clearly very happy to chat with me, although the conversation wasn’t flowing, you soon realise life becomes so heart warming when you are welcomed with such big smiles and excitement.

We become even more entertaining as they are amazed by Belles Indian eating skills. My lessons coming in hot, eating my delicious Dahl, I pick up a green bean, munching away and of course it’s a super hot chilli. All you can do is laugh really. And eat the bread.

Everyone being very friendly, reminding me to close my zipper in my bag exposing my passport. The trust is real. And my travel awareness is yet to return..

Travel buddies must be selected wisely, due to these unforeseen adventures one must have the awareness to remain calm, always see the funny side and know that it always works out one way or another. As long as snacks are available and more importantly you are flexible with plans. It gave us much time to reflect on all out other hilarious times and wild situations we’ve been in, always a bright side, at least this time no-one has been arrested.

Our taxi back to our friends home is lovely, giving us a quick tour of some temples all lit up beautifully, turns the heater on for me as it’s freezing cold. And I’m out.. asleep until we reach home, to another beautifully cooked meal, chai and rum cake. 

This bed feels like a dream, first actual bed sleep for 3 nights…

30/12/22

Day two, and Taj attempt number two. Fresh chai and a coffee to begin this day.

Again we take the same train, the one we were supposed to take to Agra. We are certainly being spoilt with their hospitality - our breakfast all packed up, arriving at the train station, a super helpful man shows up at the platform and guides us to our correct location. We squat down and enjoy our breakfast picnic. Dahl with Aloo Paratha and the delicious chutney. 

Still very cautious and quickly losing trust, we confirm the train number via the TV screen, asking 17 people and checking 13 times - we are on. Guided to our bed seats this is beginning to look like the dream. This time we are prepared with borrowed jackets and all.

This is clearly the most I’ve travelled on a plane and train at once. So this, this is yoga. Welcome to India. Stay tuned…

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